Byakudan, meaning sandalwood in Japanese, is the first impression that greets you on arrival at this idyllic, back-to-nature hotel in Hakone. The second is the spectacular mountain and valley views from the floor-to-ceiling glass windows in the lobby, which doubles up as the restaurant for breakfast, dinner, and matcha afternoon tea. There are 16 rooms which combine international levels of comfort with traditional Japanese design features such as tatami floors and shoji screens. All offer a private onsen bath on the terrace, fed by the purest hot spring waters straight from the source.