Hoshinoya Tokyo is a ryokan for the 21st-century, rooted in Japanese tradition and craftsmanship but with contemporary flourishes in all the right places. Each floor functions as a six-room ryokan centred around an ochanoma (living room) where sake and rice ball snacks are laid out on wooden tables, surrounded by sink-into sofas. When you do venture out, the Ginza shopping district is in one direction, Ueno Park in the other.