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Arrive
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Day 1 Bilbao to San Sebastián
Pick up your hire car in Bilbao and drive an hour east along the coast to San Sebastián – once a sedate fishing village favoured by aristocrats and royalty as a beach resort in the late 19th century, now celebrated for its gastronomy. In 1912, Hotel Maria Cristina opened its doors as the finest place to be seen, and your home for the next two nights has retained all its flawless Belle Époque glamour in a manner that’s positively up to date. Grand bedsteads put an authoritative stamp on every bedroom, and its suites present a regal level of comfort unlike anywhere else in the Basque Country.
Overnight: Hotel Maria Cristina
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Day 2 San Sebastián
Albeit small, San Sebastián has an exceptional 16 Michelin stars. This morning, visit markets and bars dedicated to pintxos (small Basque Country snacks that mirror Spanish tapas). For a hands-on experience, the hotel’s formidable culinary and wine centre will teach you how to carve Iberian ham, bake local delicacies and the nuances of sherry tasting. In the afternoon, head to the beach or the Balenciaga Museum, before taking your pick for dinner in a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Overnight: Hotel Maria Cristina
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Day 3 Pamplona & St Jean Pied-de-Port
Drive inland for an hour to have lunch in Pamplona's handsome Old Town (avoiding the hectic week-long San Fermín bull run in July). Later, turn northwards to Roncesvalles - Orreaga, in Basque - where Charlemagne's men were defeated in 778. This spot and its monastery are now a pilgrimage site for giving thanks for a safe crossing of the Pyrenees. Your own crossing will follow the scenic Valcarlos Route, heading over mountain peaks where eagles and buzzards soar, to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route starts here, but you will instead stop to rest at your centrally located hotel. This family-run establishment is supremely comfortable: with well-appointed rooms, a Michelin-starred restaurant and a swimming pool and garden sanctuary.
Overnight: Central hotel
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Day 4 Eugénie-les-Bains
Travel less than two hours inland, through verdant Nouvelle-Aquitaine to reach Eugénie-les-Bains, the spa town that takes its name from the patronage of the last French Empress: Eugénie de Montijo, wife of Napoleon III. The stars of this rural outpost are the three Michelin ones that have been impressively held for more than 40 years by chef Michel Guérard at his restaurant at Les Prés d’Eugénie, your next hotel. Locally sourced organic ingredients are at the heart of the cuisine minceur menu (slimming cuisine, a term coined by the chef), striking the ideal balance between hedonism and health. The hotel and its divine spa within this 19th-century villa honour the same values; and each room is a vision in crisp white modernism complemented by rustic farmhouse antiques.
Overnight: Les Prés d’Eugénie
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Day 5 Drive to Cap Ferret
Continue a couple of hours further north, taking in pine forests and fresh forest air, to the Bay of Arcachon. Forget the Côte d'Azur - Cap Ferret, the French oyster capital, is a summer destination par excellence. Here you will spend two nights hidden away in a charming boutique hotel at the tip of the fishermen's headland. Tranquillity pervades its pared-back rooms and wood-panelled cabins, with nautical flair and a winning simplicity. This evening, why not dine on the bistrot's terrace, where seafood and regional specialities from the Landes and Gironde shine alongside a selection of desserts that are nothing short of spectacular.
Overnight: Coastal hotel
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Day 6 Cap Ferret
Spend the morning revelling in the seaside air, cycling around the Cap, past its lighthouse, dunes and untouched Bay of Biscay beaches. The freshest of oyster lunches with a panoramic view to match awaits at Chez Boulan, where staff will happily illuminate about the intricacies of how they shape their oysters and their distinctive, varied characters. Your gastronomic adventure continues later, over a dinner of delicious moules frites at Chez Hortense.
Overnight: Coastal hotel
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Day 7 The Bordeaux Wine Region
Swap coastal treats for vineyards, moving inland towards the rolling wine region. Stop in glamorous Bordeaux itself on the way for a couple of canelé - the classic vanilla and rum-soaked pastry with a wonderful caramelised crust and a custard surprise at the centre. Perhaps visit the Bassin de Lumieres in a former submarine base which is host to a major immersive digital contemporary art instillation. Monet, Renoir, Klimt and Klein are a few of the artists on show. Your destination is Saint-Émilion, where you will stay for two nights at the 17-bedroom Hotel de Pavie, set within three former convent buildings that overlook the medieval town's rooftops. Styled with an eye for the contemporary, each room is named after a domaine (with Pétrus residing right at the top). A taste of signature Bordelais dishes will come courtesy of the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant this evening, from fois gras to sea bass, with perfectly paired wines, naturally.
Overnight: Hostellerie de Plaisance
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Day 8 Wine Tasting at Chateau Siaurac
Explore some of the many wineries in the Bordeaux region today. The marvellous Château Siaurac, for instance, is a single vineyard extension of Pomerol and the largest estate in the appellation, with a glorious 19th-century château that plays its part with aplomb. Learn about biodynamic techniques, taste its wines and appreciate the diversity that even 46 hectares can afford.
Overnight: Hostellerie de Plaisance
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Day 9 Glorious estate in the Charente
Working your way further north still, your next destination – and hotel – is the inimitable Domaine des Etangs, a bucolic vision in the middle of the Charente region. A rustic fairytale sprung completely to life, this meticulously restored 11th-century château and its medieval suites lie within a 2,500-acre nature reserve, with six isolated farmhouse cottages and rooms furnished in the utmost contemporary taste. Exposed stone walls, timber eaves and astronomical antiques meet sleek, minimalist furniture, floor-to-ceiling windows or maybe a freestanding copper bathtub with a view – smart design offset by a gloriously homely warmth. Spend the afternoon exploring, before a magical evening of stargazing. As for culinary credentials, besides delightful opportunities to dine al fresco (perhaps a secluded picnic by a pond or a barbecue in the woods), Domaine des Etang’s Michelin-starred restaurant serves farm-to-table dishes inspired by the freshest produce.
Overnight: Domaine des Etangs
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Day 10 Recharge at Domaine des Etangs
Detoxing and feeling at one with nature are the order of the day: this idyll revels in its tranquil surroundings, with vast ponds for fishing and rowing boats, a seemingly endless forest and meadows scattered with Limousin cows. The hotel’s spa draws on the natural environment for its sublime treatments (some also “served” al fresco) – and followed by a walk in the woods, admiring the pristine vegetable garden in the company of its gardener for a blind tasting, a spot of birdwatching or rowing on one of the lakes, total bliss will seem right around the corner.
Overnight: Domaine des Etangs
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Day 11 Travel to Paris
Leave your hire car at Angoulême rail station and to the French capital this morning. Settle in the splendid Relais Christine, fittingly found on the Left Bank’s Saint-Germain-des-Près – the epitome of Parisian lifestyle where chic boutiques meet medieval history. The hotel building is 17th-century but sits on the site of a former 13th-century Augustinian monastery. No two of its rooms are quite alike, each eliciting a certain individuality, perhaps thanks to a Toile de Jouy print, sparkling chandelier or bold decorative wallpaper. Spend the afternoon at leisure – perhaps take time to admire the Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés, just a 10-minute stroll away. Make like the locals in the evening, dining at a characterful bistrot.
Overnight: Relais Christine
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Day 12 Paris
Curiosity and wandering feet will be rewarded today. Browse world-class galleries such as the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay, or catch the latest exhibition at the Monnaie de Paris; cross the river to discover the delights of Le Marais or sail the Seine at dusk on a private Riva boat. Whatever you choose, you will be sure to uncover some of the many enchanting secrets that this serendipitous city holds.
Overnight: Relais Christine
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Day 13 Private transfer for your flight home
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Depart