There is hardly a more central or impeccably presented hotel in Budapest than the Four Seasons Gresham Palace. The formidable sight of this art nouveau building on the banks of the River Danube greets every traveller crossing the capital’s landmark chain bridge, and inside, it is all sweeping ironwork staircases, stained glass and striking chandeliers – with two million restored mosaic tiles that inspire curiosity about Budapest’s storied past. The hotel is an ideal base from which to explore both the older Pest side of the city and the Buda area just across the river, where the royal castle complex has stood since 1265.