From the hypnotic sight of sunset over the River Nile to the awe inspiring temples littered around Luxor and the Valley of the Kings, Egypt is a destination that delivers magical experiences from start to finish. On my recent familiarisation visit to the country, I was fortunate enough to not only check out the latest luxury openings in the country, but I was also able to delve deeper into Cairo's eclectic food and cultural scene, meet some of our fabulous Egyptologist guides whose knowledge and passion astounded me, and experience warm Egyptian hospitality at its very best.
CAIRO
Being the main international arrival point into Egypt – as well as the base for visiting the mighty Pyramids at Giza – Cairo makes a logical starting point for most explorations of Egypt. However there is far more to the capital city than just the Pyramids. Thrumming bazaars, fabulous restaurants, intriguing mosques and Coptic churches... there really is a cultural melting pot awaiting discovery if you are willing to linger a little longer. Furthermore, being something of a museum lover myself - and having visited countless superb museums across the world - the number of excellent museums in Cairo really astounded me.
Most visitors to Cairo are likely to pay a visit to the Egyptian Museum. Though many exhibits from this world-class collection have been moved across to the new Grand Egyptian Museum (opening date still to be advised), a visit to the original Egyptian Museum is still essential. The sheer volume of displays and collections here drives home the extraordinary wealth of Egyptian heritage in a way that is impossible to match.
Naturally, I was also curious to check out the progress of the new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM), and I must say this is an opening that is definitely going to be well worth the wait! The exterior alone is simply stunning, with soaring, shard-like panels and a wall covered in the cartouches of all known pharaohs. It is now also possible to enter the main lobby (advanced ticket purchase required), where a statue of Ramses II overlooks proceedings and a short guided tour showcases the developments to date.
Cairo hotels
The Four Seasons Nile Plaza remains one of the reliable places to stay in the city. I love the hotel’s spacious rooms (particularly the Nile View Rooms with private balcony), the sheltered swimming pool and terrace on the fifth floor, and the choice of eight superb restaurants on-site. Alternatively, for a special treat, you may wish to consider a stay at The St. Regis Cairo. The interiors of this stellar hotel gleam in fresh, contemporary luxury, opulent details - and the service here is second to none.
LUXOR
From Cairo I flew to Luxor, capital of ancient Egypt (Thebes), and home to some of the most striking tombs, temples and monuments in the ancient world. Nothing prepares you for volume of magnificent sights to be found in and around Luxor, and the sheer impact of simply being here made an enormous impression on me during this visit. As I travelled out of the city centre to my base at the Al Moudira, I observed archaeological sites everywhere – some being worked on, others waiting their turn – but history simply everywhere. This was reflected in an amusing comment my guide made to me, about how none of his colleagues or friends dare buy property close to historical sites in Luxor anymore due to the volume of discoveries still being made. It is simply not worth the risk!
Things to do in Luxor
From the mighty columns of the Luxor and Karnak Temples to the breathtaking Valley of the Kings, there are not enough superlatives in the world to describe the magnitude of historic sights to be found around Luxor. The temples of Luxor and Karnak are linked by the now beautifully restored Avenue of the Sphinxes.
The Valley of the Queens also makes a striking impression, housing over 90 tombs including the intricately decorated tomb of Queen Nefertari. This (along with many classic Luxor sights) is likely to be included in your Nile cruise itinerary if you are taking one. Red Savannah can arrange some fascinating additional activities, however, such as a visit of Howard Carter’s House. Here, a veritable treasure trove of maps, excavation tools and photographs belonging to the eminent British archaeologist can be found, as well as an exact replica of Tutankhamun’s burial chamber.
Other activities you may wish to consider are a visit to the Mummification Museum near the Luxor Temple, home to one of the best preserved mummies in the country - as well as an intriguing collection of mummified animals, reflecting a common practice in ancient Egypt at the time. Or for an extra-special treat, the experience of a hot air balloon flight over the Valley of the Kings is simply magical.
Best hotels in Luxor
Some visitors to Luxor find the choice and quality of hotels in the centre of the city a little underwhelming. That is why I always recommend those with time venture a little further out and stay at the fabulous Al Moudira. This boutique gem, a 40-minute drive from the centre, is a labyrinth of character and charm – the ideal place to slow the pace in a serene and beautiful setting.
NILE CRUISE
For many visitors to Egypt, embarking on a cruise along the legendary River Nile is a highlight of any visit to Egypt - and I was no exception. We work with a number of superb Nile cruise operators, and my four-night itinerary was on board the fresh and modern Historia. Having always received excellent feedback for this vessel, I was reassured to experience for myself Historia’s wonderful onboard service, uplifting cabins and truly excellent food.
The highlights of my time on the Nile were many – too many to recount here – but if I had to pick the most standout experiences, the sight of the towering Luxor Temple illuminated in the glowing sunset was an utterly enchanting one. So too was the sheer intricacy of the tiny carvings covering the walls of the Edfu Temple. I could not believe how detailed and magnificently preserved they were.
Travelling on a four-night itinerary (as opposed to the three-night options typically departing from Aswan) allowed me to take full advantage of the Historia’s onboard facilities and provided some welcome downtime.
ASWAN
My time in Egypt concluded in Aswan, the southern gateway city to the Nile and a place of key strategic and cultural significance since ancient times. The pace of life in Aswan feels calmer than in the northern cities, and in some ways captures the beauty of the River Nile in a way that is difficult to find elsewhere. The sight of white-sailed feluccas drifting along the river (perfect for a sunset cruise) and the oasis-like botanical gardens on Kitchener’s Island are just some of the things to love about spending time in Aswan.
Things to do in Aswan
As well as being an utterly charming place to relax in a riverfront setting, there are also plenty of attractions in and around Aswan to keep you occupied. Philae Temple is a sight not to be missed, standing proud on one of the islands dotted around the river at Aswan and dedicated to the Goddess Isis.
A visit to Philae Temple is likely to be included on your Nile cruise itinerary (if you are taking one), but not so a visit to one of the other spectacular ancient sites in the region – Abu Simbel. Located a three-hour drive (or short flight) from Aswan, Abu Simbel’s breathtaking temples are carved out of the rock face and the intricate hieroglyphics found inside detail the exploits of pharoah Ramesses the Great. We can easily organise a day trip to Abu Simbel for you at the beginning or the end of your Nile cruise, and an expert private guide will help you unlock the secrets of this remarkable place.
Aswan hotels
For me, there is no better place to complete your experience on the Nile than at the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract. A veritable Egyptian icon, this converted Victorian palace on the Upper Nile has hosted many notable characters over the years, from Sir Winston Churchill to Agatha Christie who penned her classic novel Death on the Nile here. For me, a stay at the Old Cataract rounds off a Nile cruise perfectly, with its wonderful Nile facing swimming pool, gleaming spa and atmospheric piano bar.
MY TOP EGYPT TRAVEL TIPS
Plan early
Though this may seem like an obvious point, it is a particularly pertinent one when it comes to getting the best possible experience for your once-in-a-lifetime trip to Egypt. The very best Nile cruisers can have as few as 18 cabins, and - with fixed departure dates - it can be challenging to find space on the finest vessels if the planning is left too late. It is also worth bearing in mind that domestic flights in Egypt get booked up notoriously quickly, so - if you would prefer to avoid a 04.00 am start on your holiday – planning in advance is crucial!
Include some downtime
To avoid the worst of the crowds and the heat, you will find many of your days in Egypt start early. Including some time to slow the pace is therefore well worth considering if you do not wish to return home in need of another holiday! We can factor in extra days at some beautiful properties along the way, or you may also wish to consider some beach relaxation and marine pursuits on the Red Sea at the end of your holiday.
Shift the focus
A trip to Egypt inevitably includes plenty of temples, tombs and archaeological sites. To avoid feeling ‘templed out’ half-way through your holiday, I recommend changing the pace with some alternative activities, which could be browsing a colourful bazaar, taking a leisurely felucca cruise or simply reclining by the swimming pool for a few hours with a good book. This will ensure you are feeling fully refreshed for the adventures ahead.
Don't overlook Cairo
As I discovered myself, to merely use Cairo as a hopping point for seeing the Pyramids is to do the city an injustice. The Egyptian capital boasts such a wealth of fabulous cultural attractions, buzzing markets, intriguing Coptic churches and a truly vibrant dining scene that you will not regret allowing yourself a little extra time here to experience what Cairo is really about.
