New Zealand has always held a special place in my heart, so I was delighted to be able to return to this magical country in May. This is a place that astonishes people due to its spectacular natural landscapes, but I was also reminded this time of the incredible warmth and hospitality of its people. I was further struck by New Zealand’s thriving foodie scene. It was always a country where you could eat well, but on this visit the wealth of exceptional farm-to-table food experiences was really very noticeable. It is a place that should now be on any foodie’s radar. And that’s before we even get to the wine…
AUCKLAND
The main international gateway to New Zealand, buzzing Auckland is an essential first stop on the North Island. This visit reminded me just how clean, cosmopolitan and vibrant the city is, and the restaurant scene is livelier than ever. The city itself boasts plenty of attractions and attractive neighbourhoods for those visiting for the first time. You can discover countless museums, shops and galleries, take a cruise on Waitemata Harbour and get your foodie fix in farmers markets or in the gourmet hotspots of Ponsonby, Viaduct Harbour and Wynyard Quarter.
Best hotels in Auckland
For me, the Park Hyatt Auckland is still one of the best places to stay in the city. Its location on the waterfront is impossible to beat, and the views from Harbour View and Rooftop Rooms are fabulous.
Newly opened since my last visit to New Zealand is the InterContinental Auckland, and I found this to be a very worthy alternative to the Park Hyatt. Cool, contemporary, wonderful views from the higher floors and possibly the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in in all of my travels!
WAIHEKE ISLAND
One of the highlights of my time in the Auckland area this time around was opportunity to spend longer on Waiheke Island. Just 35 minutes by ferry from Auckland, New Zealand’s ‘wine island’ is well worth a visit – and not just for its 30 boutique wineries. Waiheke Island is home to beautiful coastal trails, beaches and galleries – and the pace of life here is blissfully relaxed, which is noticeable from the moment you arrive. I realised I was quickly becoming quite envious of the lucky island residents who meet for coffee on the commuter ferry to Auckland each morning, and then drink wine together on the ferry home!
Wine is, somewhat inevitably, one of the most enjoyable aspects of any visit to Waiheke Island. If you are spending a day here, I would typically organise a tour for you that includes three or four wineries with a delicious lunch included at one of them. Wine enthusiasts will probably already be familiar with names like Stonyridge and Mudbrick, but a visit to Batch Winery is also highly recommended. Food lovers should definitely sample the ‘Trust the Chef’ menu, or settle in with a Batch Barrel Platter, feasting on delicious fresh produce from land and sea.
Given all the charms of Waiheke Island, it is well worth spending at least one night here (ideally two) before returning to Auckland. This also gives you the opportunity to stay at The Boatshed – a place of warm Kiwi hospitality and wonderful sea views.
HAWKES BAY
Returning to the mainland I continued my leisurely sojourn through the North Island. After stops for canopy zip lining in Rotorua and to revisit some of my favourite views and properties in Lake Taupo, I reached another wine lover’s haven – Hawke’s Bay. As with Waiheke Island, there is far more to this region than just wine. Hiking, art, beaches and the colourful Art Deco town of Napier are just some of the attractions. All that being said, the draw of the wine here is difficult to resist. Over 70 wineries can be found in the Hawkes Bay area – 30 of these with cellar doors – and with names like Craggy Range and Elephant Hill among these numbers, even the most discerning of wine lovers are well catered for here.
NELSON
Arriving on the South Island, my first stop was Nelson. One of the sunniest spots in New Zealand, this is a small city with a thriving arts scene. Nestled between three national parks, there is no end of opportunity for outdoor adventure and, once again, top notch food and wine.
Hotels in Nelson
Te Koi the Lodge
One of the undoubted highlights of my time in Nelson was my stay at Te Koi - The Lodge. The stunning views of the Waimea Estuary strike you from the moment you arrive, but it was the exceptional warmth and hospitality of hosts Ali and Ian that made this such a special place for me. I loved sharing a glass of wine with them and hearing about the labour of love they invested in transforming the lodge into what it is now. Evening meals can be entirely personalised at the lodge and, for me, eating here felt like having dinner with friends.
Pihopa Retreat
For those seeking a more independent stay in Nelson, Pihopa Retreat is a luxurious oasis located just a five-minute drive from the heart of the city. The hotel is bursting with character, with breakfast served in the atmospheric setting of the old chapel. There is no restaurant for evening meals here as you are encouraged to sample some of Nelson’s superb restaurants. Pihopa make it as easy as possible for you to do this, making reservations for you and even providing you a pre-paid taxi card for the journey home.
ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK
The Nelson region is also the perfect base for visits to the Abel Tasman National Park. This small but perfectly formed national park tumbles onto the coast north of Nelson and is made up of lush forest filled with native birds, golden sand beaches and crystal-clear waters where you may be able to spot fur seals, dolphins and blue penguins.
This time around I took a private guided cruise around the pristine coastlines of the park, spotting the iconic ‘Split Apple Rock’, admiring the picture-postcard views, glimpsing playful dolphins and feasting on a delicious lunch on board. Swimming and snorkelling is also possible as part of your cruise, and those lingering longer in the area can take advantage of the park’s superb kayaking opportunities and scenic coastal hikes.
KAIKOURA
A picturesque drive south through Blenheim and along the northeast coast of the South Island took me to my next stop, Kaikoura. I first visited Kaikoura over ten years ago and, while I certainly enjoyed it at the time, it had nowhere near the same impression as it did for me this time around. This visit to Kaikoura became one of the absolute highlights of my entire trip, due to the incredible activities I undertook and my base at the magical Hapuku Lodge.
Things to do in Kaikoura
Kaikoura is best known for its lively marine life and, above all, its superb whale watching. Sperm whales can be seen year-round in Kaikoura, which really is an irresistible draw, and when setting out on a whale watching boat trip you will have very good chances of spotting these majestic mammals along with seals, dolphins and plentiful sea birds.
This time around I complemented a boat trip with a first for me – whale watching by helicopter. This was an utterly breathtaking experience and one that I tell all my clients they absolutely must do when visiting Kaikoura. The helicopter flight allowed me to appreciate the colossal size of the whales in a way that is simply impossible by boat, and gain an entirely new perspective on the landscapes of the region. It is also a great choice for anyone with even the slightest concern about sea sickness. We were in the sky for around one hour enjoying the scenery and spotting whales, but your experience can be extended if you wish to include further heli-sightseeing in the region.
Photo by South Pacific Helicopters
Another absolute standout from my time in Kaikoura was again a heli-themed experience – this time taking me on an unforgettable journey into the mountains and the wonderfully remote Mt Fyffe gin distillery. Here I spent time with distillery owner Justine, hearing her story which took her from Scotland to this remarkable place where the local flora and botanicals inspired her to begin crafting her own gin. We sampled her creations (along with some delicious cheese) as part of a picnic by a dazzling blue lake, while I imagined what it must be like to live and work in such a place.
Foodies visiting the region must also take in a visit to Hapuku Kitchen – our trusted helicopter operator can drop you here after your time with Justine in the mountains. Hapuku Kitchen is run by Fiona Read - a finalist on MasterChef New Zealand – along with her husband Chris, and the kitchen brings the concept of farm-to-table dining to life in the most outstanding way. As part of your visit to the Hapuku Kitchen you will forage for herbs in the gardens and then return to the kitchen to enjoy exceptional local cuisine and wine with Fiona and Chris as they talk about what brought them here and what life is like in this incredible corner of New Zealand.
Hotels in Kaikōura
For me, the number one place to stay in the Kaikoura region is Hapuku Lodge. This luxurious eco-retreat is nested between the Seaward Kiakoura Range and the Pacific Ocean. The lodge boasts wonderful views from its stylish treehouses and, as you would expect, delicious local food.
MARLBOROUGH – MIDDLEHURST STATION
My time on the South Island was about to get blissfully off-grid as I travelled by helicopter to Middlehurst Station, a working sheep station in the Awatere Valley. Hidden away in a far-flung corner of the High Country, a stay here provides a fascinating insight into life in rural New Zealand. You can immerse yourself in life on a working sheep farm with activities such as sheep herding and sheep shearing (in season), and well as tours of the station by 4x4, exploring by bike, feasting on delicious organic cuisine and soaking in a hot tub under the star-filled skies.
MOUNT COOK
After a brief stop in Christchurch it was on to Mount Cook. The Mount Cook (Aoraki) National Park and surrounding Te Wāhipounamu World Heritage Area is one of the most spectacular areas on the South Island, and coming back here certainly did not disappoint. This time I took a magical helicopter flight over to the Tasman Glacier. Here we landed and - equipped with crampons and poles – set out on a superb guided hike on the glacier. You do not require a high level of fitness to enjoy this experience so it is something I would recommend to everyone visiting the region – along with one of the wonderful glacier boat trips to spot icebergs.
Hotels in Mount Cook
On a trip already blessed with some exceptional places to stay, I was blown away once again – this time by Mount Cook Lakeside Retreat. The location of this all-villa hideaway wowed me first of all - set in a forest wilderness, wedged between the turquoise waters of Lake Pūkaki and the majestic Ben Ōhau ranges. By night you can be whisked off to the Pukaki Observatory for a warming drink in the cellar before cosying up with a blanket and hot water bottle while you enjoy the glittering constellations visible in these unpolluted night skies.
Back at the retreat, you are wowed once again – this time with the sublime comfort of the villas, which look out either to the lake or the rippling Ben Ōhau ranges. My villa featured private access to the Fantail spa with its sauna and magical outdoor hot tub overlooking the lake. Whichever of the three villas you stay in here, loving attention to detail is a theme throughout, from the cosy fireplaces to the exceptional in-villa catering which allows you to enjoy the lodge’s highly acclaimed cuisine without having to emerge from your heavenly cocoon.
WANAKA
Photo by Miles Holden / Tourism New Zealand
Travelling south from Mount Cook to the Fiordland National Park, I broke the journey in the lively lakeside town of Wanaka. Visiting Wanaka reminded me of how the adventure capital of Queenstown used to be ten years ago; relatively small but buzzing with energy, boasting a universal appeal attracting backpackers and luxury travellers alike, and blessed with an enchanting lake and mountain setting. On this visit, I was able to check out a new and completely new innovative accommodation option in the area – Lake Hawea Station.
This regenerative working farm is located in stunning natural surroundings just 15 minutes outside Wanaka, and also lives a double life as an exquisite design lodge. The two cottages at Lake Hawea Station have been furnished with generous doses of luxury and attention to detail. From the highest quality linens and Bose speakers to thoughtful touches such as complimentary wine and cookies in each cottage, the feel here is one of an indulgent home-from-home. I loved being able to purchase one of the station’s gourmet food packages which can be used to create a delicious meal in the privacy of your state-of-the-art kitchen. Spending a few nights here provides the perfect break from formality if you have spent much of your travels in traditional hotels and lodges.
During a stay at Lake Hawea you can take advantage of a wealth of hiking and mountain biking opportunities, including a section of the Te Aroroa trail. What fascinated me most during my visit, however, was my tour of the regenerative farm where I learned more about the innovative farming practices adopted by the station. The goals are far reaching, from protecting waterways, restoring biodiversity to the area and committing to becoming ten times climate positive through the planting of 100,000 trees. Animal welfare is also pivotal at the farm, and I loved discovering the sensitive details adopted such as playing classical music during sheep shearing to reduce distress for the animals, and the provision of soft mattresses for the sheep to land on once they have been shorn. Lake Hawea Station really is a remarkable place!
FIORDLAND & MILFORD SOUND
Travelling south from Wanaka, I continued my scenic journey to the Fjordland National Park. This vast, UNESCO-protected reserve is one of wild natural beauty, characterised by soaring fjords, pristine waters and ancient forests. I reminded myself of the beauty of the place with a cruise through Milford Sound. This is undoubtedly one of the most popular activities in the region, but we work with a smaller cruise operator here to offer a more intimate experience of the sound. Along the way, I spotted seals, dolphins and sparkling waterfalls tumbling down the towering cliffs.
Where to stay in Milford Sound
Fiordland Lodge in Te Anau is, for me, the very best place to stay in the area. I love its intimate feel, environmentally conscious design and spacious, comfortable rooms which look out to Lake Te Anau and the mountains beyond.
QUEENSTOWN
Queenstown was perhaps one of the places where I noticed the most change since my last visit. New Zealand’s lakefront adventure capital is now more popular than ever, bustling with shops, restaurants and bars. Though it is traditionally known for adrenaline filled pursuits (bungy jumping found its birthplace here), Queenstown’s beautiful natural surroundings make it a great place to sample a range of other activities from hiking and mountain biking to gondola rides and golf. If you are tempted to try just one adventure activity during your time here, I highly recommend the Queenstown Shotover Jet Boat - a thrilling boat ride through a pristine natural river canyon.
Hotels in Queenstown
Eichardt’s Private Hotel
The best-established luxury base in Queenstown, Eichardt’s really is a place that never disappoints. The panorama of the inky blue waters of Lake Wakatipu framed by the Remarkable Mountains in the distance is an arresting one and, within the hotel, sensitive design blends the classic heritage of Eichardt’s with generous doses of modern luxury.
The Spire
Sister hotel to Eichardt’s, The Spire brings the same polish and impeccable service but with a more contemporary feel. The hotel is set just one block back from the lake front, steps from a plethora of superb restaurants and bars. The works of modern art dotted around the hotel give it a character all of its own. All ten suites gleam with contemporary luxury, with state-of-the-art sound systems, indulgent bathrooms and other creative details providing the feel of an intimate oasis in the heart of the city.
MY TOP NEW ZEALAND TRAVEL TIPS
Embrace the open road
Some people are nervous about driving in a foreign country but I can assure you that, in New Zealand, it could not be easier. Once you leave Auckland, the roads become blissfully quiet – particularly on the South Island, where there will be stretches of driving where you may not see a single other car. Hiring a car also gives you the complete freedom to stop at as many spectacular viewpoints as you wish along the way.
Reap the rewards of off-peak travel
New Zealand’s traditional peak season is concentrated across a 12-week period between December and February. While this is undoubtedly a lovely time to visit due to the summer weather, I strongly urge people not to overlook the spring or autumn seasons when planning a trip to New Zealand. National parks will feel blissfully quiet, your budget will stretch much further and weather conditions still allow you to fully delve into New Zealand’s great outdoors.
Treat yourself to a helicopter flight or two!
If there was just one aspect of a New Zealand holiday you were considering stretching your budget for, I would absolutely recommend treating yourself to some sightseeing by helicopter along the way. It allows you to appreciate New Zealand’s astonishing natural beauty in a way that is simply impossible from the ground, allowing for breathtaking and up-close encounters with snow-capped mountains, splintering coastlines and sprawling glaciers.
