I have always loved a great USA road trip, so I had high hopes for my recent familiarisation trip through Nevada, Utah, and Arizona. I was not disappointed. Taking to the open road and discovering breathtakingly beautiful national parks, thrilling adventures, and utterly charming people made for the trip of a lifetime.
LAS VEGAS
My journey began in Las Vegas. A truly intoxicating place to either start or finish a road trip in the American west, there really is no place like Vegas. Many people, myself included, used to assume that Las Vegas is very much a place for adults only, but I could not have been more wrong. While it is true that hedonism can easily be found by those who seek it, my visit this time really opened my eyes to the sheer wealth of activities that can be enjoyed in Las Vegas by anyone of any age, and it is definitely a far more family-friendly place than you might expect. As it operates on a 24/7 basis, it's also a great place to overcome jet lag as, if you wake up at 4.00 am, you can be fairly sure that somewhere nearby is serving breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
Best things to do in Las Vegas for all ages
- Soaring over the Grand Canyon by helicopter
- Taking in a spectacular show – I highly recommend “O” by Cirque du Soleil
- Experience the wonders of the Strip, from Ferris wheels and roller coasters to dancing fountains gondola rides
- Immersing yourself in the cinematic concert experience at The Sphere
ZION NATIONAL PARK
Collecting my hire car to leave the bright lights of Vegas behind, I was reminded of just how easy – and enjoyable – it is to self-drive in the USA. As soon as you are out of the big towns and cities, the joy of the open road kicks in and you soon realise that the travel is very much part of the adventure. You also have the complete freedom to set your own pace. Crossing the border into Utah, the vast open skies and ever-changing colours of the sunlight hitting the sandstone cliffs gave me a thrilling taste of the wonders that awaited me.
My base for my time in the Zion area was one of our luxury USA mobile camps. Though the camp is not set within the confines of the national park itself, I quickly realised what an advantage this was for the most unspoiled wilderness experience imaginable. You do not have to share your unforgettable sunrises or sunsets with any other visitors! And this wilderness certainly does not come at the expense of comfort! Our professional local team set up a luxurious camp ahead of my arrival where supremely comfortable sleeping tents are equipped with proper beds, memory foam mattresses, and even a hot water bottle thoughtfully placed under the covers while I was having dinner. In my private shower tent, I experienced one of the best showers of my whole journey, while every meal prepared by our private chef was so fresh and delicious. Set against a backdrop of the panoramic mountain views, it brought the concept of farm-to-table cuisine alive in the most memorable way.
The camp itself was located just 20 minutes from the entrance to Zion National Park, and here I encountered one of the most breathtakingly beautiful national parks I have ever visited. Towering sandstone cliffs come alive in vivid shades of red and ochre, contrasting against the verdant canyon beds carved out by the Virgin River. Private vehicles are not allowed inside the park, but it is very easy to get around by taking advantage of the regular shuttle buses included in your entrance ticket, hopping on and off at will to immerse yourself in the scenic hiking trails. I would also highly recommend an e-biking adventure in Zion, should you wish to cover even more ground. Outside of Zion, the location of my mobile camp allowed me to experience two other exhilarating activities. In Pink Coral Sands National Park I was able to drive my own UTV over vivid orange dunes, accompanied by an expert guide, and stopping at the best intervals to grab a sandboard from the trunk and glide down headfirst across soft sands - and often without my board! The second was climbing the Via Ferrata in Cave Lakes Canyon, finishing with a short abseil followed by a delicious lunch in the cooling shade of a hidden cave.
THE LODGE AT BLUE SKY, NORTHERN UTAH
From Zion I drove north through Utah to Wanship, pausing along the way to soak up the dramatic views of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument on the horizon. Arriving at The Lodge at Blue Sky you are transported to a world of understated mountain luxury. The lodge is a prime base for skiing at Park City during the winter months, but there is so much to draw you here outside of the ski season. From mountain biking to heli fishing, clay shooting and world-class wellness, this is the place for the ultimate luxury outdoor immersion at any time of year. For me, perhaps the most memorable experience was watching the skilled horse whisperers at work at Gracie’s Farm – it really left a lasting impression.
MOAB
Arriving in Moab, the adventure capital of Utah certainly did not disappoint. This small city is lively enough with a great choice of restaurants and atmospheric bars, but it is Moab’s stunning natural surroundings of sandstone cliffs, soaring canyons, and the mighty Colorado River that make it an essential stop for outdoor adventures in the southwest.
Best things to do in Moab
- Rafting along the Colorado River – there are options available for all levels, and we can arrange half-day, full-day, and even multi-day rafting adventures where you spend nights in comfortable riverside camps along the way
- Marvelling at the soaring stone arches, dramatic canyons, and petrified dunes of Arches National Park
- Mountain biking, rock climbing, and UTV adventures
- Hiking in the ‘wild west’ scenery of Canyonlands National Park
- Hot air ballooning
- Star gazing in a certified Dark Sky Park
During my explorations of Moab, I was based at Sorrel River Ranch. Positioned a 50-minute drive outside Moab on the banks of the Colorado River, location is everything here and I thoroughly enjoyed sipping a cold beer on my balcony looking out over the river.
CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK
In a state blessed with so many national parks, there is still plenty of beauty to be found away from the big headliners. Capitol Reef offers striking outlooks of rust-coloured cliffs and plunging canyons, but its allure is also in its relative serenity, being frequented by far fewer visitors than some its better-known neighbours.
Equally enjoyable during my time in the area was my stay at Cougar Ridge Lodge. I was utterly charmed by this laidback working ranch that offers authenticity in spades, but plenty of creature comforts too. Families would particularly love a stay here as, aside from the resident long horned cows and free-range goats which are a feature of the estate, the set-up of the cabins offers the perfect dose of independence after many days restricted to eating at restaurants and diners. You can grab provisions for your fully-equipped kitchen or even a BBQ grill box, sourced from the local butcher, and enjoy leisurely evenings of family bonding together. As you would expect, dinners can always be followed by s’mores around the campfire.
Aside from explorations of the Capitol Reef National Park, plenty of other activities can be organised from Cougar Ridge such as boat trips on Lake Powell, wine tasting, and even private rodeos. I would highly recommend a stop here on your travels through Utah.
BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK & SOUTHERN UTAH
From Cougar Ridge I now began journeying south, with the Grand Canyon in my ultimate sights. Once again though, there was much to detain me along the way - and hurrying through southern Utah would be to miss out on a lot. Possible diversions en route to my next destination, Amangiri, were either Monument Valley, Bryce Canyon, or Lake Powell - a reminder once again that embracing the open road really is one the very best ways to experience the USA.
Back on the road and the approach to Amangiri was simply extraordinary. This luxury desert property really is about as off-the-beaten track as you can get, encircled by the timeless sandstone cliffs and vast plains of the Colorado Plateau. Signature Aman touches are employed throughout Amangiri, from a superb wellness offering to the pared down interior design that draws the eye out to the magnificent landscapes beyond. Activities on offer include visits to slot canyons, riding through the desert, and hiking to Broken Arrow cave – filming location of the movie of the same name. If you are travelling this far into southern Utah, I recommend combining your stay at Amangiri with a couple of nights at sister property Camp Sarika, where a clutch of supremely luxurious tents offer a completely different perspective. It's a short 20-minute walk between the two, or a quick shuttle in one of Aman's luxury vehicles; you can still choose to dine or have a spa treatment at Camp Sarika for a change of scene, even if you are not staying there.
GRAND CANYON
An easy drive (apart from the slightly dizzying crossing of the very high Glen Canyon Dam) took me to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Though it might seem obvious to say, visiting the Grand Canyon is all about the views. The majority of accommodation options in the area are functional at best, but the views more than make up for the lack of luxury. For me, the Grand Canyon is one of those places in the world that – no matter how much you hear about it or see pictures - the experience of seeing it for yourself far exceeds expectations.
The scale of the canyon is simply astonishing, something that only really hit home when I glanced a tiny helicopter the size of ant in the distance, making its descent to the canyon floor. I very quickly abandoned all attempts to photograph the Grand Canyon – the pictures simply do not do it justice. It is best just to be still, let your eyes do the work, and drink it all in.
There is so much to say about the Grand Canyon and all there is to do there that it deserves its own travel guide. But for now, having begun my journey by flying over the Grand Canyon by helicopter, this felt like a very fitting place to finish, and to reflect on all that I had experienced along the way.
MY TOP SOUTHWEST USA TRAVEL TRIPS
Take a helicopter flight over the Grand Canyon
Some visitors are in two minds about doing this due to the expense of the activity, but you really should not hesitate. It will be one of the most memorable things you do! It also gives you a much greater appreciation of the sheer scale of the canyon. You simply cannot comprehend its enormity in the same way from ground level.
Invest in an annual national parks pass
If you plan to visit three or more national parks in Utah, buying an annual pass is the best way to do it. Rather than paying $20 - $35 per entry, $70 will cover you for unlimited visits. And in a state with as many magnificent national parks as Utah, you will quickly see the return on your investment.
Get behind the wheel
Setting out on an epic road trip really is one of the best ways to experience the USA, and the southwest is no exception. You will find driving there so easy, and the freedom it affords is impossible to match. Don't be afraid of full-day drives to get to the best places as the scenery is ever-changing, and it is far better to drive a couple of hours further than adding in unnecessary overnight stops in sub-standard lodgings. Leave the stress of airports and domestic flights behind and travel at entirely your own pace. An abundance of memorable discoveries and opportunities for serendipity will follow!
